This information is a contribution from Juan Carlos Carmona.
Inca Route
Volcán Licancabur
First Ascent : 1884
Severo Titichoca (en solitario)
Valley :
Face :
Northeast
Altitude Gain : 4330 ft.
From Licancabur village to summit

Rated by 2 people
Physical5.5
Technique3
Exposure2

Best Season

It is possible to climb Licancabur all year round. Beware during the summer months with possible storms caused by the "Bolivian Winter". Between May and August it is very cold and days pretty short.


Access

Access to Licancabur is most straightforward from Laguna Verde, by the Paso del Cajón (Cajón Pass), on the Chile-Bolivia border.

From San Pedro de Atacama, take the road to Paso Jama. It´s about 30 kilometers of well paved road until reaching a detour indicated by a sign to the left which takes to Paso del Cajón. The road, now rubble, steadily climbs up the altiplanic desert, allowing for a fantastic view of the Atacama Salt Flat and the San Pedro Oasis, and reaches after some 10 kilometers the Paso del Cajón, 4480 meters above sea level. From here, it is another 10 kilometers to the southwestern shore of Laguna Verde (4350m), just beneath the eastern slopes of Volcán Juriques, neighbor to Licancabur.

A small hut at the shore offers food and shelter. An entrance fee of around $3000 chilean pesos to "Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina" (National Andean Wildlife Reservation) must be payed.


Approach

From the hut one must continue North along the western shore of the Lagunas, following a 4x4 trail. The ascent route is clearly visible from here (See Foto7 ). Then the trail turns to the West and finally to the South, climbing up a sandy creek until reaching the "Pueblo de Licancabur" (Licancabur Village); it is about 8 kilometers from Laguna Verde that will leave us right beneath the volcano´s cone, and very near Volcán Juriques. Base Camp should be set up here (4600m); it is recommended to pitch up the tents inside the inca buildings See Foto5 .


The Climb

A well marked trail starts at the village(it probably was part of the "Camino del Inca") which heads directly towards the Licancabur´s Northeast slope, where the first ruins are found, right at the cone´s base See Foto6 . The trail then follows up a long zig-zag directly to the summit, facing west and up scree with around 40º of inclination. The zig-zag section is overcome after 3 to 4 hours. At the end of the zig-zag, some big rocks are reached: the trail dissapears here at times (head Southwest), and some scrambling over rocks is required to reach a false summit. From here, it is some meters along the summit until reaching the Northeast border of the crater, highest point of the volcano. Several ruins exist at the crater´s border, and much firewood has been found in the surroundings See Foto4 . There is also a beautiful frozen pond at the bottom of the crater See Foto2 . From the summit there is a superb view of the Salar de Atacama as well as of other mountains in Chile, Bolivia and Argentina See Foto3 .


Recommendations :
  • Low temperatures and strong winds.
  • Carry all your drinking water, there is none at Pueblo de Licancabu.r
  • Take passport to cross the border.
  • Bolivian tours may me hired at San Pedro de Atacama that will take you to Laguna Verde for about $10.000 chilean pesos per person.
  • It is possible to hire a 4x4 at the hut by Laguna Verde to get to Pueblo de Licancabur.
Gear
  • Proper high altitude clothing
  • Plastic boots and crampons in winter
  • Trekking poles
  • Lots of bottles for storing and carrying water
Schedule 1
  1. San Pedro de Atacama
  2. San Pedro de Atacama-Laguna Verde
  3. Laguna Verde-Pueblo de Licancabur
  4. Pueblo de Licancabur-Summit-Laguna Verde
  5. Laguna Verde-San Pedro de Atacama
Schedule 2
  1. San Pedro de Atacama
  2. San Pedro de Atacama-Laguna Verde-Pueblo de LicancaburLicancabur
  3. Pueblo de Licancabur-Summit-Laguna Verde
  4. Laguna Verde-San Pedro de Atacama
It can be done in three days if already acclimatized.

See Foto1  See Foto2   See Foto3   See Foto4   See Foto5   See Foto6   See Foto7  


Waypoints of this route

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