This information is a contribution from Joaquín Barañao.
Normal Route via Placetas Altas
Cerro San Francisco
First Ascent : 1931
Albrecht Maass
Valley :
Río Yeso
Face :
North
Altitude Gain : 7874 ft.


Rated by 4 people
Physical3.7
Technique3
Exposure3.9

Best Season

Between October and March. The more into the season, the less snow there will be in the last part of the route, making it less physically demanding.


Access

On the main road that winds into Cajón del Maipo, 2 kms. after San Gabriel, is the place called Romeral (which is nothing more than a couple of houses and some mining machinery). There one must take the dirtroad which leaves left toward the northeast following the Yeso River. A little after km. 12 (there are signs every 2 kms. at the side of the road) and after a long, rising slope, but before the stream that crosses the road a little past the slope, is the place where one must start walking.


Approach

The hike starts climbing up the little hills which are to the right (southeast), until reaching a plateau (there is no trail here). The plateau is covered with some small bushes and a little stream crosses it to the east. Continuing in southeast direction, one reaches Placetas Altas, also called "chaparrales" See Foto2 . From here, climb steadily up the soft slopes and in southeast direction until reaching a small creek along which runs a well marked trail. Inside the creek there is a stone parapet.


The Climb

It takes more or less two hours to reach the beginning of the creek. It is very difficult to get lost here. Altitude is gained very quickly, and there is always running water very near the trail. A little before reaching the cirque that will offer us multiple alternatives for continuing the ascent, a rocky peak becomes visible: do not mistake it for the summit, which is several hours behind such false summit. At the base of the cirque there are some good campsites. There is water, but the place doesn´t offer much protection from the wind. From here it is also pretty unclear as to which is the best way to continue the ascent on the following day.

The ascent continues up the same stream that was being followed the previous day, See Foto3 , in direction to a small pass between two rock promontories. The pass will probably be covered with snow (crampons might come in handy early in the morning). After a while one finally comes into sight of what remains, the true massif appearing toward the east, See Foto4 . After an hour walking one passes next to some small rock "fingers". Here we face a scree slope, but the way to go is pretty clear: always in east-northeast direction. Once the scree is overcome it is the turn for the main difficulty of the route. The last 150 mts. run along a steep ridge of bad rock which demands some scrambling and easy climbing See Foto5 . The summit isn´t visible until just a few meters before it. Extreme care should be taken during these last meters.

The descent is done via the same route.


Recommendations :
  • Even though there is no need for climbing gear, one must feel confident during the last meters of the route, and not too tired. Otherwise it is best to turn back. A fall into the Morales valley will remain untold.
  • Likewise regarding crampons. Although at the end of the season they are not absolutely necessary, an ice axe is a must, since several hard snowfields must be crossed. In spring crampons are required.
  • There is a summit log. Take paper and a pencil.
  • Although Placetas Altas is an excellent campsite, we do not recommend it, since it is too near the road and leaves a very long journey for the next day.
Gear
  • Camping gear
  • Proper shoes and clothing
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons (optional depending on the season)
Schedule 1
  1. Santiago - Camp at base of the cirque
  2. Cirque - Summit - Santiago
Note: picures taken in December, 2001.

See Foto1  See Foto2   See Foto3   See Foto4   See Foto5  


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